I wanted to make a felted bag using the Oslo stitch and the F1 joining stitch, and I started with the usual 100% wool because it felts perfectly.
I started with 14 stitches—which, on reflection, turned out to be a bit too many, as the circle wobbled slightly. Next time, I’ll start with 12 stitches. In the first round after forming the circle, increase in every stitch. In the next round, work one stitch normally and increase in the second, continuing this pattern up to the round where you work five stitches normally and increase in the sixth. Work the next six rounds without any increases, and the wobbling effect will disappear. Next, increase again: work 6 stitches normally and increase in the 7th stitch. You can work a few rounds normally to make the bag deeper. Then, in the next round, work normally until you reach the stitch marker; there, create a "finger" using a chain of 10 stitches (you can see exactly how this is done in the socks chapter). When you reach the tip of the finger, increase by 2 stitches; this allows you to easily round the bend. The finger will become the bag's flap; the bag's diameter is now 30 cm. Once you have passed the tip of the finger and arrive back at its base, decrease by 1 stitch (this removes the sharp angle), and do the same on the other side of the finger.
At the tip of the finger, increase 5 stitches, and in the next round, decrease 1 stitch in the valley. After that, work 6 stitches normally but do not decrease on the 7th; simply continue the nalbinding there. Increase 7 stitches at the tip, then increase 8 stitches, and decrease 2 stitches in the valley. The finger grows larger, forming a flap that neatly closes the bag. Then, work another round of nalbinding normally. Next, work 5 stitches normally and decrease the 6th (continue working normally at the finger). Then, work 3 rounds normally. Next, work 4 stitches normally and decrease the 5th (continue working normally at the finger). Then work 1 round normally. In the next round, work 3 stitches normally and decrease the 4th (continue working normally at the finger). Work 1 more round normally; I felt the bag was large enough then.
The total length of the flap, measured from the center of the bag, is 41 cm, and the width of the bag is 31 cm.
The bag also needed a strap.
The length is 1.85 meters, and the width of the strap is 5.5 cm.
Other items from the stained-glass project are in the washing machine, but I always use this wash cycle for felting.
Now for the exciting part: just how small have the bag and the strap become? The total length of the flap, measured from the center of the bag, is now 33 cm, and the width of the bag is 27 cm. The length of the strap is now 1.50 meters, and the width is 3.5 cm. With this information on shrinkage, you have an idea of roughly how much the wool shrinks when making a bag using the Oslo stitch.
Once the cycle finishes, I immediately take the items out of the machine while they can still be shaped. I place a balloon inside the bag and inflate it to achieve that beautiful bag shape; then, I fold the flap over the bag (having already removed the balloon).
The handle has shrunk by 35 cm in length and 2 cm in width.
Here you can see more clearly which colors I used.
Now just to attach the strap to the bag, and it’ll be ready to be shown at the next trade fair—and it is NOT for sale :)
Couldn't decide which photo to post. :)
The next bag will have a different color combination this time. I started with 12 Faberg stitches and the F1 connection stitch.
After that round, increase in every stitch. Next, work 1 stitch normally and increase in the 2nd stitch, then work the 2nd stitch normally and increase in the 3rd. Continue this pattern until you reach the round where you work 5 stitches normally and increase in the 6th. Then work 2 rounds normally using variegated brown wool.
Then, for the next round, work normally and increase in the 7th stitch using the camel-colored yarn. After that, work 7 stitches normally and increase in the 8th stitch with the camel color. Next, work another round increasing in the 9th stitch (working 8 stitches normally before the increase), again using the camel color.
At the tip of the separate row I’m calling the “finger,” immediately increase by 2 stitches so you can easily turn the corner. When you reach the base of the finger, immediately decrease by 1 stitch—this rounds out the sharp angle—and do the same on the other side of the finger. When you reach the tip of the finger, increase by 3 stitches.
Then decrease 1 stitch at the base and increase 5 stitches at the top.
Then decrease 2 stitches at the base and increase 7 stitches at the top.
After 3 rounds using the variegated yarn, switch to the camel-colored yarn and begin decreasing, except at the finger section. Work 8 stitches normally, then decrease on the 9th. Next, work 2 rounds normally with the variegated yarn, without increasing or decreasing at the finger. Then, work 7 stitches normally and decrease on the 8th (except at the finger, where you use the camel color). After that, work 6 stitches normally and decrease on the 7th. Finally, work a round normally using the camel-colored yarn.
Now, just a few more rounds of needle-binding to make the bag a bit bigger.
This size is perfect, and now the bag can go in the washing machine and this is how it turned out.
Next, I’m going to put a balloon inside.
After drying, I remove the balloon and shape the bag.
The beauty of this bag lies in the combination of the felted Faberg stitch—where the stitch is clearly visible on the flap—and the F2 joining stitch. I just need to nalbind a strap for it.
Ametrine
Ametrine is a combination of amethyst and citrine, and it served as the inspiration for my nålebinding pouch shown in the photo above.
A second little bag in the making.
Now, just attach the handle.
For the next little bag, I chose the Faberg stitch, using the f1 connecting stitch (simply working into the next stitch). I began with a row of stitches measuring 27 cm in length. In the following round, I increased by 2 stitches to make it easier to get around the curve. Then, at the end of the row, I added 3 more stitches along the curve. In the next round, I increased by 5 stitches at the end; you can repeat this step if you wish to make the bag wider.
Once you have reached the desired width, stop increasing and simply continue the nålebinding in the round.
After 10 rounds, I created a separate row of 35 stitches in the middle.
At the end, make a small turn and increase 2 stitches within it.
At the end, attach this separate row (the finger) using 1 decrease stitch; do the same on the other side. When you reach the tip of the finger, increase by 3 stitches around. Upon returning to the base of the finger, decrease by 2 stitches; on the next pass, decrease by 3 stitches, continuing this pattern up to a decrease of 5 stitches. At the tip of the finger, increase by 5 stitches around; when you reach the tip again, increase by 5 stitches by working an increase into every other stitch.
Just one more row of stitches on the strap, and then the little bag will be finished. All the bags are made in the same way. I intend to felt this particular bag to see how much it shrinks. I have included the measurements with the following photos.
The little bag is ready for the washing machine; let’s see how much it shrinks.
The following small bag is made using the Finnish stitch 2+2 and the connecting stitch f2 (picking up the previous stitch along with the new one onto the needle).
The following small bag is made using the Asle stitch with F1.
The following small bags are made using the Finnish stitch and connection stitch F2.
You put these little bags on like a vest.